Ah, I didn’t expect the results to be different when looking at the overview, this is what I saw…

Any way to break down that “Other” and see what it contains? If it counts Ubuntu 22.04.4 LTS and Ubuntu 24.04 LTS as different operating systems there might be some more Ubuntu versions hiding in there.

I looked at the August 2024 results and SteamOS was not mentioned anywhere in the OS version section.

Probably because everybody with a Steam Desk shows up as Arch in the survey.

Did you follow some guide when replacing the nozzle and bowden tube? Did you hot tighten it when putting them back?

What speed are you printing at, which you think is too slow? What’s your acceleration?

It’s a myth that capricorn tubing is better in any way

I’d call it “successful marketing” :) But yeah, they’re really managed to convince a lot of people that it has near magical properties, and I’ve seen a lot of random people recommend it to others for all sorts of issues.

Ahh, now I get it :P

Nope, Norwegian company until they were bought by Chinese investors a few years ago. They did have a lot of developers in Sweden and Poland though.

My 4 last employers have used desktop Linux to some extent:

• Ericsson (Swedish telecoms), default was to have a Windows laptop with X server (Citrix?) but a few of us were lucky enough to get a Linux laptop.
• Vector (German automotive), Linux dev. environment in a VM on Windows laptops.
• Opera Software (Norwegian web browser), first day I was given a stack of components and told to assemble my PC and then install my Linux distribution of choice.
• And a smaller company, which shall remain unnamed, also used Windows laptops with Linux dev. env. in VM.

Sure most of it was on top of Windows, but if you fullscreen it you can barely tell the difference :)

It sounds like bed adhesion might have got worse, perhaps you have touched the print surface with your fingers while removing prints? You could try removing the plate and washing it with warm water and soap. Some people use IPA but if you do then you need to make sure you really wipe it clean before it evaporates, otherwise the dissolved fats will stay on the bed. If your bed has some kind of anti-stick coating I think there’s also a risk that you damage if you use stronger solvents.

As for warping in general it could be an indication that your flow rate is exceeding your melting capacity. If you have an all metal hotend you could try printing at higher temp, if not then try reducing print speed instead.

My first couple of computers had AmigaOS and even from the start Windows felt like complete garbage in comparison, but eventually I had to buy a PC to keep up with the times. After that I kept looking for alternative OS:es, tried Linux dual booting but kept going back to Windows since all the programs and hardware I needed to use required it. When I finally decided to go full time Linux, some time between 2005 and 2010, it was because I felt like I was just wasting my life in front of the computer every day. With Windows it was too easy to fire up some game when I had nothing else to do, and at that time there were barely any games for Linux so it removed that temptation. But that has ofc. changed now and pretty much all Windows games work equally well on Linux :)

Ahh, I thought you meant you had a 0.2mm nozzle, but now I see you probably meant layer height.

Moisture absorbtion is rarely a problem with PLA, but hopefully dehydration won’t hurt, as long as you don’t accidentally overheat it and it deforms. I’ve left rolls of PLA out in the open for 6 months without noticing any deterioration. Both your filaments used to print fine, and then the oozing spontaneously started with both of them?

2mm retraction should be more than enough for a direct drive extruder.

The only certification I have is from the Kansas City Barbeque Society, allowing me to act as a judge in BBQ competitions.

Things are probably different nowadays, but at least 15-25 years ago you could just apply for IT jobs and if someone lied about their skills it would hopefully show during the technical interviews. I don’t know if that counts as getting in very early.

What filament and other slicer settings? Could be too hot. Could be retraction settings. Did the oozing start when you switched nozzles? If it’s a cheap Amazon nozzle it might be faulty and have a different diameter than advertised. Did you follow the correct procedure with hot tightening when switching nozzles? If not, you might have got molten filament in between the nozzle and the heat break.

Easiest GUI toolkit I’ve used was NiceGUI. The end result is a web app but the python code you write is extremely simple, and it felt very logical to me.

Assuming they already own a PC, if someone buys two 3090 for it they’ll probably also have to upgrade their PSU so that might be worth including in the budget. But it’s definitely a relatively low cost way to get more VRAM, there are people who run 3 or 4 RTX3090 too.

Probably a joke, since there’s always someone commenting that the item isn’t food safe whenever a model for something food related.

It’s not easy trying to research which 3d printer to buy, there is more click bait and marketing than impartial reviews out there, and search engines tend to promote the garbage. And without a lot of 3d printing experience, it can be difficult to know if a “review” is paid for by the printer’s manufacturer, or just trying to trick you into clicking their affiliate links. There are also no consistently good brands if you’re looking for a cheap printer, pretty much all of them have produced a few good printers and others that have more flaws. For example old Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro were very good at the time, and Creality built up a lot of brand recognition, but then they switched to low quality components and seemingly stopped doing quality control and made a bunch of crap. Now it might be turning around again, as Creality’s latest printers are starting to look decent again, although perhaps a little overpriced.

Personally I use this spreadsheet to compare pros and cons of budget printers. It’s maintained by a group of users at a 3d printing discord server, and while one cannot know for sure none of them have any ties for example to Sovol (the most recommended budget brand currently), they’ve seemed quite impartial to me so far.

Interesting… I’ve never had this issue in Fedora KDE, which I run on my PC, but exactly the same thing happens on my wife’s PC and the HTPC which both run Xubuntu. Tried setting screen saver, power save options and eventually even uninstalling the screensaver completely. At least in my case it’s caused by Xorg DPMS if I remember correctly. Fixed it a while ago but then it came back on one of the computers at some point. Check out https://wiki.archlinux.org/title/Display_Power_Management_Signaling if it could be the same for you.

The only issue is (layer height), which of course can change from print to print.

Technically not the only issue 😀 it can also change from layer to layer.

Maybe calculate it from the length of filament being pushed out / the length of the movement * filament cross section? I’m on my phone so I can’t check right now but that info should be possible to extract from the gcode iirc

Never heard of this printer brand, but if it turns out that its mainboard isn’t compatible with what you’re trying to do then it might be an option to replace it with a cheap stepper driver board from AliExpress. You wouldn’t need anything fancy if you’re running Klipper on your RPi