I get down to the water about twice a day, but I’m not always available. I surf and am a strong swimmer, and years ago was trained in water rescue, CPR, first aid, etc.

We had a tourist go out in what the neighborhood lovingly refers to as the ‘wrong way’ from our local spot, which is a easy 1-3 foot left on typical days in south/ west swells, but turns into a HUGE 8-12 ft right/ left/ center/ choppy fucking mess in heavy swells.

This tourist went out on a day when none of the locals were heading out, and immediately went right to the ‘wrong way’, which is like, about a quarter mile of 15ft basalt cliffs, with sharp af rocks and caves underneath.

That area to the right gets a CRAZY current under heavy swells because the water has no-where else to go, on top of having massive bangers coming in and pushing you into the rocks. Even the best surfers at our beach avoid that area, because if you get stuck there, you are fucked.

Anyways. Tourist almost instantly got into trouble. They got knocked off their board and very quickly were getting smashed by the rocks. At one point they got pulled under the rocks. Luckily my buddy was fishing near by and with the help of a neighbor kid, they pulled him out. But that buddy is not really a surfer. Like he fishes, but he is not a strong swimmer. Dude came out and was like, definately concussed. Was talking about how he learned to surf in New York and we were like “Yeah sure buddy, lets get you to whatever airbnb you were at so they can take you to the hospital.”

Ocean isn’t a fucking joke.